My internal debate has reached a conclusion. After requesting more detailed information and checking some blogs and YouTube videos online I’ve decided to go with the clutch motor.
Main reason is the fact that a servomotor (despite what I wrote before) can have problems stitching thick layers of leather at low speed since you’re using little bit of the power of the machine. Additionally I like to control speed by the pedal; it is something I got used to over the years. So I can go super slow at difficult sections like corners and speed up at straight parts.
I called Mr. Emil to let him know that, despite the fact I requested info about the servo machine, I like to buy the clutch machine. Unfortunately he told me no more negotiation possible. Since I do not have other options I could not play too hard. I already learned that pushing to hard makes you end up with nothing. He has one assembled machine available that they used in a showcase (but was not used) and he can give me bit of discount on, making the price Rp. 8.250.000 (app. €520) The machine will be delivered next week, I’m so excited!
In the mean time I’ve been to some markets to find fabric and moreover leather. According to my internet research there three markets to buy fabric; Tanah Abang Market, Mayestik Market, and Pasar Baru. I’ve visited Pasar Baru as many tailors are housed here as well and Sander wants tailor made shirts.
Pasar Baru is one long street with many, many fabric stores (and yes, also tailors) that mainly sell wedding fabric (bright coloured laces and glitters), batik-like cottons and imported fabrics from China, Japan and Europe. The price is a bit high but with a bit of negotiation you can get to around Rp. 30.000/meter for cotton and Rp. 40.000/meter for jersey (which is quite hard to find). Haberdashery (in Dutch fournituren) I could not find anywhere so far.
I also started the hunt for leather. Apparently this is even more difficult. I went to Mangga Dua, which is combination of something like 6 shopping malls housing many textile shops, electronics shops and everything in between. At the Harco Mangga Dua- block B they sell leather and tools. Well let me narrow this down, mainly synthetic leather and tools as in buckles and zippers. Overall cow leather is difficult to find (and often imported from Europe). They mainly sell goat leather, which has a very soft touch but is also less stiff. Prices are quite high, around Rp. 40.000/ft (€2,50)for cow leather and Rp. 25.000/ft (€1,60) for goat leather. In Netherlands I typically bought cow leather for €2/ft so I was very much surprised by the price. Though my negotiation skills are getting better I could not get a better price. So I ended up with only one piece of cow leather that I will use for quality check.
Coming weeks I have to visit some more markets/shops/… maybe other areas of Indonesia that can supply me the right (and affordable) materials for both making bags and clothes. Keep you posted!